Suntory Yamazaki 1984

So we weren’t being exactly accurate when we stated that the US is limited to the 12 and 18 year old expressions of Yamazaki. There was actually one more available here and that was the 1984. But for most the purchase price ($600) was so high that it might as well not have been available here. The allocation to the US was also limited to only 300 bottles.

The Yamazaki 1984 was bottled to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Yamazaki brand. 1984 was the year that new stills were installed at Yamazaki with the intent of producing single malt whisky – as opposed to just blends. As with most Yamazaki’s the 1984 is a combination of American, European and Japanese (Mizunara) oak but there is a higher dosage of Japanese oak aged whisky.

Yamazaki 1984
Bottle #2645
48% ABV

Color: Burnt orange/copper

Nose: Loads of fragrant wood, sandal wood, old furniture, oily, musty, licorice, cloves, cinnamon, fresh baked spice cake, hints of cherry, red fruits.

Mouth: Oily mouth feel, cinnamon, Mizunara influence is clearly present, dark baking spices, sandalwood, hazelnuts, red berries, hints of mint, caramel, very luscious.

Finish: Clean, fades on the fragrant wood notes.

This is a very luxurious, well composed and exactingly calculated whisky as I would expect from a Yamazaki (that is not a single cask). I think a big tip of the hat has to go to the blender(s) that created this amazingly well balanced and full flavored whisky.

Nikka Whisky – Coming to the US

Nikka Whisky is finally making its way to the US.   It is projected that the whisky will be launched some time in November of this year through Anchor Distilling Co. here in San Francisco.  Most people have already heard, but I think that it is worth mentioning here as it is very significant not only in terms of Japanese whisky but all whisky.  I am always bitching and moaning about how we barely get any Japanese whisky here – there are really only four expressions available from Suntory right now (Yamazaki 12, 18, Hakushu 12 and Hibiki 12).  This is a mere sliver of the total expressions that Japanese distillers actually produce.  I am ecstatic that Nikka will now finally be launched here to add to the selection of Japanese malts.  Initially Nikka is releasing the Taketsuru 12 (a pure malt) and the Yoichi 15.  If you are not familiar with Nikka Whisky, we posted a quick history here.  I was also lucky enough to visit the Yoichi distillery and posted by experiences here.

Unfortunately I don’t have any of the Taketsuru 12 or Yoichi 15 around right now to sample but I did have the Yoichi 12:

Color:  Medium brown/copper

Nose:  Text book Yoichi – coastal, smoke, rutty, earthy and musky, some light apple hiding underneath it all, a sweet and dark baking spice mixture, pumpkin bread, wisps of eucalyptus and menthol.

Palate:  Briney, decomposing vegetation, surprising alcohol prickliness (for 45%ABV) but not overwhelming, mushrooms, peat, muskiness is very evident, slightly ashy, the malt starts to make its presence known towards the end, some sweet spiced bread/cake, oily.  With water it gets sweeter and loses some of the mouth-feel, cleaner and not as rutty.

Finish:  Medium, ash, dark spices.

This is one of my favorite whiskies.  If it was available here it would be one of my favorite everyday sippers.  It is not as big as the Yoichi 15 but it holds its own and is at a lot better price point.  I believe it was less than $50 last time I got a bottle at duty free in Narita.

Chichibu Newborn Cask Number 23

This Newborn was aged for a whopping 6 months in a new American oak hogshead. Dispite all of the grief craft distillers are getting here in the US for releasing young whiskies, I have enjoyed all of the Newborn releases that I have tried so far: Heavily Peated, Double Matured and Mizunara Cask.

This Newborn can currently be found at Liquors Hasegawa in Tokyo Station.

Stats of this Newborn are as follows:
Cask In: April 2008
Bottled: October 2008
Cask: New American Oak Hogshead
ABV: 62.9%
Price: 4,800 Yen

Hanyu “The Game” bottled for Shinanoya

*Image from Shinanoya’s Rakuten Site*

As you probably know already, Hanyu is one of the now silent Japanese distilleries. As the stocks dwindle away the demand rises accordingly. The majority of Hanyu expressions come in the form of the Ichiro’s Card Malt Series. A fun and often eclectic mix of different age statements and cask types are intermittently released by Ichiro Akuto. This Hanyu expression was specially bottled for one of Japan’s best whisky retailers – Shinanoya. This is the follow up from their first The Game bottling and it went fast. I believe it sold out in pre-order and didn’t even make it to the stores. Akuto-San played around with the finishing cask some by replacing the bourbon barrel heads with Mizunara heads. This means the original staves from the bourbon barrel remained the same but now some Mizunara wood was being integrated into the aging/finishing process with the heads (top and bottom of the cask) being replaced with Mizunara wood.

Hanyu The Game bottled for Shinanoya ~$85
Distilled:  2000
Bottled:   November 2011 @59.4% ABV
Cask:        No. 917 Mizunara Headed Hogshead
Bottle Number 37 of 309

Color: Medium yellow and gold
Nose: Big oily incense notes, sweet, cedar wood, earthy, each time I nose it there is something else, cola/soda, layers and layers of spice and fragrant wood, nutmeg, old wood furniture.
Mouth: Wow! – that about sums it up…An initial layer of natural sugar sweetness, followed up by the intense fragrant wood flavors, again layers of it, spices and a nice malty backbone.

With water
Nose:  Dustiness, same fragrant wood, a little sharper on the spices.
Mouth:  More on the malt, loses some of the fragrant wood/incense, heading more towards the familiar flavors of a Scottish Whisky now, drying.

Comments:  This is one of the better malts that I have had in recent memory.  A feisty youngin’ but with an amazing depth of flavor.  The touch of the Mizunara influence really added another dimension to this one.  I wish I was able to pick up more of this one.  – Chris

Chichibu The First

Since the promising initial releases of Newborn expressions from Ichiro Akuto’s Chichibu distillery we have been impatiently waiting for the first fully matured distillery release. The Newborn expressions were all over the map from bourbon barrels, to heavily peated and even straight mizunara casks. With such a wide variety of whiskies we were curious to see what flavor profile Akuto San would take with his first release.

Chichibu The First~$115
Distilled 2008 Bottled 2011
7400 Bottles at 61.8%ABV
Vatting of 31 Bourbon Barrels

Color: Light yellow, gold

Nose: Buttery sweetness, slightly dusty, a very highland-like malt nose – fresh fruit, apples, light syrup, bright, hints of sarsaparilla spice

Palate: Sweet candies, sugar coated, spices, tight and balled up though, too much alcohol to get a good taste neat. Cardboard dullness on the back end, green skinned fruits – apples, grapes. Some light bitterness.

Finish: Medium, grainy aftertaste.

With Water
Nose – opens up more mizunara oily fragrant wood notes, something metallic though, even brighter, apple tart

Mouth – mellows out more, more filled out green fruits with a nice natural sweetness, tons of malty and grain, chewy.

Comments: A great malt that shows that Chichibu has a lot of promise. I was surprised that this was the route that Akuto San decided to go down though as it was fairly tame and middle of the road – not that it is a bad thing. I’m really looking forward to future release, I do hope that the prices don’t spiral out of control though as they are getting expensive and harder to purchase before they sell out. – Chris

Another take: A thin, grassy yellow, the color took to sunlight well. The nose was not what I expected.  Heat and chocolate, barely and bread with a dash of iodine and wood.  Varied grain-based notes rose to the top of the body.  Baked goods with sweet butter, roasted malts, ground grains and  spiced apple.  An airy, easy-to-enjoy quality permeated the varied starches.  Still, at cask strength, an intense, lingering mid-to-dark sugarines settled in to stay.  Not what I expected from Ichiro, and this was some enjoyable unpredictability.  A touch of water unearthed some sharp floral notes but did not dilute the flavor…  adding a little spring to the darker warmth of this one. –Nate

Chichibu The Floor Malted

Another interesting new release from Chichibu and I am definitely not complaining…well the wallet is a little but I am sure that I will overcome its protests. Here in the US craft distillers get a lot of praise for their innovation and attention to detail – rightfully so. Ichiro Akuto should be acknowledged as well for what he is doing at Chichibu. This currently release is Chichibu The Floor Malted. Which as the same suggests is made with barley that is floor malted – a characteristic of one of a whisky’s primary ingredient that is getting to be more rarified.

There will be 8800 bottles of this release coming in at 50.5%ABV. It is an interesting combination of primarily bourbon casks as well as puncheon and Chichibu’s own original quarter casks called “Chibidaru”. This is supposed to go on sale this month so keep an eye out for it because I expect it to sell out almost immediately like most Chichibu and Ichiro’s Malts releases.

**Update** Some more insightful details about this bottling over at the Japanese whisky authority Nonjatta here.

Clint over at Whiskies R Us reviewed and provided his tasting notes on The Floor Malted here.

Where to buy:  You can order a bottle from Claude Whiskies Japan here.  They do speak English and ship outside of Japan as well.  Tokyo’s Liquors Hasegawa also has bottles for sale now too.

Breaking New Ground With A Classic Touch: Chichibu’s Ichiro Akuto (Part 2)

This is the second part of our interview with Akuto San. You can read the first part here.

WhiskyWall:   You are growing your own barley, sourcing local peat and growing Mizunara trees.  Is it your goal to make a 100% Japanese whisky – similar to Kilchoman’s just released 100% Islay whisky?

あなたは、自身で麦やミズヌマ材を育て、地元のピートをお炊きになると聞きます。あなたのゴールは、キルホーマンが最近発売した純アイラ・ウィスキーのような、100％国産のもののみを使用した、純国産ウィスキーを作ることですか？

Akuto San:  たぶん、ウイスキー造りをしている人間ならだれでも、同じような夢を持つのだと思います。高品質のウイスキーを造ることが最優先事項ですが、もし国産原料のみで実現できればとてもうれしいですね。どのくらいの数量が出来るかはわかりませんが、ぜひ実現したいと思っております。

I think probably anyone making whiskey has a similar dream.  Of course I always try to make the highest quality whiskey, but it would be even better If I could do that with all domestic materials.  I don’t know how much I could produce, but I want to make a 100% Japanese whiskey one day.

WhiskyWall:  Your washbacks are made of Mizunara, why did you decide to do this?

なぜウォシュバックにミズナラを使用することにしたのですか？

Akuto San:  当時ウオッシュバックをステンレスにするか、木製にするか、迷っていました。たまたま木桶を造るメーカーに友人が勤めていて、良質なミズナラ材が使用できるという情報を得ました。ウイスキー蒸溜所でオーク材をウオッシュバックに使用しているところはありませんでした。専門家の意見も聞いたうえで、導入を決めました。

I was debating whether to use stainless steel or wood for our washbacks.  Then, one of my friends who happened to work in a coopery business told me I could use Mizunara.  No distiller uses oak wood for washbacks, but I decided to use Mizunara after checking with a specialist.

WhiskyWall:   Chichibu releases have been primarily single cask expressions, do you plan on having a standard chore range of expressions?

いままでの秩父からのリリースは主にシングルカスクですが、今後定期的にリリースする銘柄などの計画はありますか？

Akuto San:  今年は２００８年の原酒が３年を迎えます。数量は限定になりますが、世界的にシングルモルトウイスキーとして発売を計画しています。年に数回、発売をすることになると思います。

The distribution may be very limited, but I’m planning on releasing a single malt made in 2008 that has reached 3 years world wide this year, several times a year.

WhiskyWall:  What are some of the challenges for you as a relatively small distillery?

比較的小さな蒸留所であることのデメリットはどのようなことですか？

Akuto San:  スタッフの人数が少なく、顧客の要望に十分応えることが出来ないことはあります。しかし、今取引があり顧客は十分理解を頂いておりますので、特にデメリットは感じていません。

We do not have enough staff to fully satisfy our customers’ needs.  But our customers are also very understanding, so we do not feel bad about not being able to fully meet customers’ demands.

WhiskyWall:  What are some of the benefits?

逆に、小さな蒸留所であることのメリットは？

Akuto San:  原料仕入れから製造、熟成状況などのすべての工程を把握することが容易です。また、一回のロットが少ない分仕込みを頻繁に行うため、若い製造スタッフたちのスキルが急速に向上することも大きいです。

All of our staff are involved in the whole process, we make a small quantity at one time, but do it frequently.  So young staff learn and get better at making whiskey in a short period of time.

WhiskyWall:  Unfortunately, here in the US we do not have access to your whisky, do you have any thoughts of ever bringing your whiskies here?

残念なことにここアメリカでは、現在あなたのウィスキーを入手することが出来ませんが、将来アメリカで販売することをお考えですか？

Akuto San:  ぜひとも、そうしたいと考えております。

Definitely.  I am planning on selling my whisky in the US in the future.

WhiskyWall:  What bottles of whisky do you have at home now?

あなたが今お家でお持ちになっているウィスキーのコレクションは、どのようなものですか？

Akuto San:  私はバーで多くの銘柄を試したいという気持ちから、ボトルのコレクションを積極的には行っていません。本気で集め始めると大変は出費になりますから。しかし、時々気になるボトルや限定ボトルを購入するこはあります。キニンビーのヘーゼルウッドやラフロイグ２１年、ボウモア２２年、古いスプリングバンク３０年や２１年、その他のスコッチの古いボトルも少々あります。理想を言えば、オフィシャルボトルであっても買っておけば、原酒構成が時代とともに変わるので大変貴重なサンプルになります。

I like to go to bars and try different whiskeys, so I don’t try to collect bottles and don’t have much at home. Kininvie’s Hasel Wood, Laphroaig 20 yrs, Bowmore 22 yrs, Springbank 30 yrs and 21 yrs, and other old Scotch whiskeys.  Even official bottles will become precious samples as it ages over the year.

WhiskyWall:  Are there any whiskies that just amazed you? Which ones?

あなたが今まで出会ったウィスキーで、ただただ感心させられたものはありますか？ いくつか挙げられますか

Akuto San:  まだ、ウイスキー経験が浅かった頃、「ウイスキーがこんな味がするのか！」と思ったボトルとして、濃厚な香水のようなブレーバーを感じたエドラダワーがあります。６０年台ボウモアの南国果実のようなフレーバーにも驚嘆しました。また、グレンモーレンジのアーティザンカスクもホワイトオークのフレーバーにも大いに興味を惹かれました。しかし、それ以外にも、多くのボトルが個性的でとにかくウイスキーの奥深さと多様性を感じさせてくれます。

When I didn’t have much experience, as for bottles where I thought “Whisky can have this flavor!” I felt Edradour had a flavor of dense perfume.  I also admired Bowmore in the 60s for its passion fruit-like flavor.  I was also fascinated by Glenmorangie’s Artisan Cask for its white oak flavor.  Still, other than those, I have had the privilege of many bottles with individuality, whiskies with depth and diversity.

WhiskyWall:  For those people that are not familiar with Japanese whisky, is there anything that you would like to tell them?

まだ日本のウィスキーに馴染みの薄い人々に、伝えたいメッセージはありますか？

Akuto San:  ウイスキーは蒸溜所ごとによる味わいの違い、熟成環境による味わいの違いを楽しむのがその醍醐味の一つだと思います。日本のウイスキーはスコットランドともケンタッキーやテネシーとも異なる環境で育まれてきました。その独自の環境で熟成されたウイスキーは楽しんでいただける価値があると思っています。ぜひとも、ご自身の鼻と舌でその独自性を感じてみてください。

To enjoy different tastes and different distilleries and environments is on of the ways to appreciate whisky.  Japanese whisky has grown in a different environment from Scotland, Kentucky, and Tennessee.  Therefore I believe it is worth is to enjoy whisky that is specific to a unique environment.  I highly recommend that on tries the unique flavors using one’s own nose and palate.

A More Mature White Oak: 12 Year

Last week I took a taste of White Oak (Eigashima) Akashi 5 year old.  It showed some good promise so I was looking forward to giving its elder sibling a try.

White Oak 12 Year ~$60/500ml
50% ABV

Color: Medium copper, dirty yellow

Nose: Whoa…very weird and funky, rubber, a latex glove, bicycle tires, medicinal, smoke, vegetation, sharp, malt is hiding way in the back, slightest hint of mint candy

Palate: From weird on the nose to yuck on the palate, medicinal – novocaine, burnt rubber is overpowering, then moves towards gnawing on a brand new bicycle tire, smoke, bitter, pepper spice, some dark spices and alcohol burn down the gullet

Finish:  Too long.  Even if it was short it would be too long.  Burnt rubber.

Comments:  Anyone want a bottle of White Oak 12? – Chris

Off of the Japanese Whisky Beaten Path: White Oak (Eigashima) Akashi 5 Year

Japanese whisky has been making some serious headway in the single malt whisky world so most are familiar with Suntory’s Yamazaki and Hakushu expressions as well as Nikka’s Yoichi.  But there are some other distilleries in Japan that have yet to extend past the island nation’s borders.  One such distillery is White Oak, some times referred to as Eigashima （江井ヶ島） which is located in Akashi (あかし）, Hyogo Prefecture（兵庫県,）.  White Oak is primarily a sake and shochu producer, however they produce a limited amount of whisky.  Most of the whisky targets the cheap mass market of blends – as the fact that there is the 1L plastic bottle option for purchase indicates.  However, they do produce some single malt whisky under the Akashi (あかし）name.  I am going to start with the 5 year old and then give my impressions of the 12 year old in a later post.  To get even more detailed information and history on the White Oak distillery please check out Nonjatta’s post.

Akashi 5 Year Old ~$27 for 500ml
45%ABV

Color:  A vibrant yellow, dangerously close to highlighter yellow

Nose:  Not knowing anything about this spirit I was surprised to find a decent amount of peat on the nose, some rubber, new car tires, vegetation, buttery, artificial sweetness: sweet tarts, cereal, it reminds me of the Ledaig 10

Palate:  Sweet like the nose indicated, somewhat wattery in the mouth feel, subtle peat, simple maltiness, sweet grain, young and raw spirit but pretty crisp

Finish:  Short, sweet grain and some lingering peat

Comments:  Very promising, still immature as expected for a 5 year old.  The wateriness was a little disappointing though.  Hoping that some more flavor will show in the older expressions.  – Chris 

Suntory Hakushu Distillery Hogshead 1996

Another one from the line up of our Japanese whisky tasting that we had in April.  Suntory’s Hakushu Distillery puts out some solid expressions that I really like so this one had a lot to live up to.

Hakushu Hogshead 1996 ~$120
Distilled 1996, Bottled 2008 at 62%ABV
Bottle 607/100

Color:  Bright golden yellow

Nose:  Honey sweetness, floral and bright, the alcohol makes its presence known, pears, coconut, oily, fresh pine needles

Palate:  Oily, buttery, big oak and malt presence, alcohol is overpowering.  With some water – powdered sugar, more ripe sweet golden apples, after letting it sit for awhile: strong oak spice, honey comb and oak char

Finish:  Long and spicey

Comments:  Very vibrant, fresh and powerful but pretty one dimensional.  I had higher hopes for this one but it just fell short for me.  Not a bad whisky but something missing.  And at $120/bottle there really shouldn’t be anything missing in my opinion.  – Chris