Glenfiddich’s Cask of of Dreams

Well it is finally here…the culmination of last year’s Cask of Dreams campaign has been bottled and is available for purchase.  If you are not familiar with the Cask of Dreams, it was a nationwide campaign where 11 individual casks were brought to different cities where individuals memorialized their dreams and aspirations by writing them onto the casks.  We attended the San Francisco event last year so it was great to see this project come full circle and sample some of the whisky from the Cask of Dreams.  I had the fortune of sitting down with Glendfiddich’s West Coast Ambassador Mitch Bechard to talk about and taste this expression.  If you ever get the opportunity to attend a Glenfiddich event make sure that you do – Mitch’s knowledge and more importantly his passion for whisky make for a great experience.

The Cask of Dreams is a limited release of 3500 bottles and is only available in the United States.  The whisky that composes this expression consists of American oak casks ranging from 14 to 16 years old.  These casks were vatted and then transferred to the 11 virgin American oak Cask(s) of Dreams that made the trip from the US.  Because these casks never held whisky before it was important to carefully monitor them – Brian Kinsman sampled them every few weeks – so that they do not over cook the whisky inside.  After 3 months, it was decided that the perfect balance had been achieved.

Before getting intoxicated (pun only partially intended) by the fumes of the marketing and advertising machine, we have to keep grounded and remember it is about the juice inside the bottle.  A grandiose story doesn’t make up for shit whisky.  So putting by best efforts to forget the story behind it, I gave the whisky a taste…

Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams NAS $99
14 – 16 year American Oak
Finished 3 months in virgin American Oak
Bottled at 48.8% ABV

The color was surprisingly dark and of an almost chestnut hue.  I wasn’t expecting that from the age of the component whiskies and from all American oak.  The nose was reminiscent of dried red fruit and spices.  The vanilla was hanging around in the background as well.  The palate initially hit with a firm spiciness then with a layer of vanilla and sweetness but underneath was the familiar yet subtle apple and malty notes that I tend to get from Glenfiddich 12.  There was also a chewy full mouth feel to it.  At the suggestion of Mitch, I added some water.  This took some of the spicy new oak edge off of it and made for a more composed whisky.  I got a little dustiness after letting it breath for awhile.

It is not a heart stopping powerful whisky but it does make for a well composed “round” whisky with an added touch of excitement.  The spice from the new oak along with the higher ABV make for a very user friendly whisky in that you can control the flavor settings with water.  All in all this is a tasty whisky that I did enjoy.

Japan’s Scotch Shop “Shizuka More” Islay Bottling

Japan’s Scotch Shop carries a variety of Distillery as well as Independent Bottlings. They also carry an interesting series called the Shizuku Series. This series is further broken down the Shizuku More and Shizuku Flavor lines. The Shizuku More line consists of single cask expressions from four different regions (Islay, Speyside, Highland and Islands). We do have to play the guessing game with these expressions as the distilleries are not disclosed. The Shizuku Flavor line,as the same suggests, are expressions labeled by flavor profile (Floral, Honey and Smoky) rather than region. Tending to prefer Islay malts and limited on budget the decision was made to go with the single cask Islay bottling. Although it cannot confirmed – after some interrogation – the salesman hinted at this being from Lagavulin…

Shizuku More Islay 3,000円
58.4%ABV
200ml bottle

Color – straight copper. Big nose, smokey salty bright. A cloud of charged flavors. With an undertow of sugar. An initial warm muteness breaks through dust with a rush of spiced peat, heat, and doughy sugars with a very slowly settling wake of burnt something, caramelized sugar, ash, and salted fruit. An impressively dynamic whisky with bright, faceted aspects. The 58% ABV is well handled and the Islay flavors are frisky and on display. Suspiciously well balanced somewhere between the armchair-fireplace dram and a palate-revitalizing, certainly young, conversation piece. Yum. Nate

AD Rattray Bowmore 20

Last time we tasted a couple of younger whiskies from the AD Rattray line up – this time we visit an older Bowmore.

AD Rattray Bowmore 20 $120
Cask: Bourbon (#271)
Distilled: February 26, 1990
Bottled: October 27, 2010
No. of Bottles: 235
ABV: 54%

Color: Light gold

Nose: Wafts of peat and seaside brine, a cakey sweetness underneath the peat, none of the red fruit complexity that I tend to get from Bowmore.  This initially seems like straight forward peat but with time it filled out with coastal breeze, spice and sweet notes.

With water: Sweeter with the water, airs out – becomes lighter, more of the bourbon influence becomes present, some citrus.

Palate: Very oily, big peat forward and fading smoke, a bitter tinge in the middle, oak spice, surprisingly light for a 20 year old.  A lot more subtle than expected.

With water:  Becomes more ashy, softens the spices, dusty, drying, earthy, juice-like sweetness.

Finish: Medium with a full flavor profile of peat, ash, spice and sweetness.

A delicate but full flavored older Bowmore, a different dimension from this distillery, almost Caol Ila like with the sweetness and ash, I really enjoyed this one. Great balance of flavors.

The Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve

The Dalmore…to be honest we haven’t really tasted many expressions from this distillery. Nothing negative about this distillery its just that We simply have not taken the time to get to exploring the whiskies it produces. The Dalmore originally released is Cigar Malt a few years ago and many took an immediate liking to it. A nice sherried dram that you can imagine yourself sipping in front of a fireplace on a nice leather sofa. But the Cigar Malt soon disappeared – well at least in name. There was some confusion as to the origins and purpose of the Cigar Malt, from wayward ideas that cigars or tobacco had some hand in the production/aging of the spirit to thoughts that it was meant to be enjoyed while leisurely puffing away on a cigar.  To fill the void of the departed Cigar Malt the Gran Reserva was released – but it just wasn’t the same and apparently the demand for the Cigar Malt remained.  The Dalmore responded to this demand by bringing back the Cigar Malt, but now with the added “Reserve” moniker.  The Cigar Malt Reserve now has a higher percentage (70%) of Oloroso Sherry in the vatting with the remaining 30% consisting of ex-bourbon casks.

The Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve ~$125
44% ABV

Fragrant at a distance, the nose of this one breathes an enticing sweet butter caramel with touches of burnt earth, a hint of something medicinal and honey. A full-malt body parcels out oranges, leather, a little roasted char, and slightly smokey sweets. These flavors and a subtle spiciness linger. A pleasing experience.

Comments:  This is a very refined, regal sherried whisky that almost everyone would enjoy.  A relaxing whisky at the end of the day or to share while conversing with a good friend.  The price point is a little steep but not outrageous.  If you like this flavor profile in a whisky then I don’t think that you will be disappointed.  There are some whiskies that I enjoy that others argue are over priced and better whiskies can be had for cheaper – but my response is those other whiskies aren’t the same and I like this whisky.

Thanks to the Baddish Group for kindly providing us with this sample.

Glenrothes Night

Another one of San Francisco’s whisky seasons has come, drunk, and conquered. With events ranging from time-well-spent to a-mediocre-night, I have been remiss in not commenting on a tasting that was decidedly pleasing. Some weeks back, the opportunity to attend a Glenrothes promotional event found me willing and able. The event played out in a private room of Nihon (a local whisky bar of note featuring Japanese fare). The powers that be did more than a few things right to make this event a cut above. Firstly, it was small. This was not a meet-and-greet party for gregarious inebriates sponsored by Glenrothes. While such events can be delightful, it is not always the best circumstances under which to get personal with a whisky. That Glenrothes held the event at Nihon also spoke to the caliber of the event. To revel in a little whisky promotion in the confines of a smaller, cushy chamber of wood and dimmed lighting plays to the strength of whisky sampling and related conversation. The garish lighting of warehouse-events is great for illuminating a huge space and helping you recognize people from across the room, but give me the intimate confines of a little faux candle-lit space with comfy seating (and the knowledge that there is a huge and varied selection of quality liquor downstairs) and I am more than satisfied. Glenrothes’ representative, one Mr. Ronnie Cox, it must be said, sealed the deal. A well-spoken man who is spoken well of, Mr. Cox proved a good host and a superior orator on Glenrothes’ behalf. Prior to the tasting I enjoyed the opportunity to share a beer and a few words with him concerning Glenrothes and whisky in general, as well as some incidental conversation. A seasoned veteran of much alcohol appreciation and promotion, I’m of the opinion that not only has Glenrothes provided Mr. Cox with a respectable product to laud, he has brought to Glenrothes his wide-ranging experience wrapped in a refreshingly mellifluous take on the English language.

And so, to bastardize the Bard (Romeo and Juliet, Act I, Prologue), we lay our scene. Glenrothes straddles a rare whisky ridge, it is well-known but not famous (or infamous, for that matter). You will not find it at a convenience store (don’t get me wrong, many good things are) and you might not even find it at your local bar. You will, however, find it at many a drinking establishment and any liquor store serious about good whisky. Its has a distinctively rotund bottle that steps outside the typical mold, and its had it since before fooling around with bottle shape was cool. A signature look. This coupled with their school report card-inspired label makes for a curious combination of a whisky that is distinct but not in your face… which accurately describes the whiskies themselves (if I can give the whiskies personhood). The age statement on the bottle is a rare and curiously refreshing approach to whisky bottling (one they have been doing for quite a while). They do not release a twelve or eighteen year that is regularly supplemented with like reproductions. Glenrothes places the year of distillation on the label and when that version is gone it is gone. No repeats, just an evolution of what they are aging and outputting. These are Speyside whiskies. These are whiskies that represent the Speyside palate well. These whiskies do not rely upon esoteric barrel agings or experimental approaches. I am crazy about bizarre and eclectic approaches to whisky aging, my taste buds can not get enough of it, be it an Islay finished in a Zinfandel barrel or a lowland in a Bordeaux (or an Ichiro in a port pipe!). But if one looses appreciation for the art, the time-proven work of crafting a traditional Scottish whisky, one is lost.

Glenrothes delivered. Tasting notes? If I had not enjoyed the evening as much as I did, I would probably have better notes to impart, but then if I had not enjoyed it so much I probably would not be writing this. Do your own homework. Try the line-up and you are like to find something more than agreeable.  And if you get a chance to try the Editor’s Cask, consider yourself lucky. Cheers to Glenrothes and all those involved for putting on a whisky tasting that stood out not only for its whisky, but for the places and persons involved. –Nate

A Couple of Young AD Rattrays

From one of our favorite independent bottlers these two distilleries aren’t seen too often on this side of the pond.  The current line up of AD Rattrays are relatively young (with a few exceptions).

Macduff 10 $66

Distilled November 15, 2000
Bottled April 5, 2011 @ 59.8%ABV
Sherry Cask (No. 5786)

Color:  Light copper

Nose:  Sherry up front, figs, earthy, over ripe red grapes with hints of vanilla

Palate:  Intense red fruit with a fiery alcohol back drop – needs water! Much better…sweet grain notes, cereal, nice even handed sherry influence, cough syrup, walks right up to the line of being too sweet for my taste, lingering spice, something slightly synthetic/rubbery sticks out, cherries, varnish?

Finish:  Hangs around awhile with some nice spice.

Comments:  Deep flavors for a 10 year old, a well balanced sherried Speysider, it manages to escape the sulfery tones that I get a lot with sherry casks I am happy to say.  A little youthful, wish I could taste it after it sat for a couple of more years.

Glen Ord 12 $66

Distilled March 17, 1998
Bottled October 30, 2010 @60.1% ABV
Bourbon Cask (No. 24)

Color:  Pale yellow

Nose:  Rich, buttery, chalky, hard candy, caramel, butterscotch, fresh

Palate:  Sweet, the ABV makes it tough to get through though, thick oily mouth feel, vanilla, surprising spice.  With water: a lot more enjoyable, milder, sweet, honey, powdered sugar, floral and slightly dry.

Finish:  Short with some oak bite

Comments:  A nice straight forward Highland malt, sweet but kicked up a little, its nice to be able to adjust with water since it is at cask strength, enjoyable but not necessarily memorable.

Chieftain’s Glendullan 1999

Many thanks to ImpEx Beverages for this sample!  Unfortunately for us, the only release of Glendullan you normally see around these parts is the Singleton of Glendullan expression that comes in that pain in the ass bottle that doesn’t seem to fit in with any of your other whisky bottles.   I say that it is unfortunate because that expression is rather pedestrian and forgettable – on the plus side though it is cheap…So with almost no historical tasting reference for Glendullan I didn’t really know what to expect from this independent bottling.

Chieftain’s Glendullan 1999
11 y/o Cask No. 16543 46%ABV

Color:  White wine, extremely light gold

Nose:  Intense, vanilla, full bodied and bright, apples, powdered sugar, bourbony vanilla notes

Palate:  Whoa…not what I was expecting – the brightness on the nose seems to only be a distant memory,  watery, grassy, very subtle at first then the malt and vanilla start to come forward, some lingering spices.  Thinking that this one might benefit from some water: brings out some dustiness, more floral, buttery, a thinner flavor profile

Finish:  Short and floral

Comments:  A pleasant and surprisingly delicate whisky.  I was hoping that the palate would match the vibrant nose.  – Chris

Murray McDavid Ledaig 6 Year

Ledaig is an often over looked island whisky distilled at the Tobermory distillery. For some reason Ledaig (pronounced Le-Chig) hardly gets any attention from whisky drinkers. Maybe a lack of marketing? In my opinion, it isn’t for a lack of flavor or decent pricing. The Ledaig 10 (now being bottled at 46% ABV) is a damn good dram and at a reasonable price of ~$45. So when I learned about this all sherry aged Ledaig I had to give it a try.

Murray McDavid 2004 Ledaig 6 $44
46% ABV, Sherry Cask

Color: Medium amber

Nose: Big wafts of sweet peat intermingled with deep sherry notes, right on the verge of some off putting sulfur notes but pulls up right before it becomes too noticeable, mild smoke, rich, the youthful alcohol is present

Palate: Ashy, peat, a little thin flavored – can tell it is a young’n, sherry influence is there but not overbearing, creamy, dark spices and apples

Finish: Long lasting peat

Comments: A very enjoyable and fun all sherry island whisky. A tasty treat at a great price. If you want to try something different, give a Ledaig a try. –Chris

Ardbeg Corryvreckan: A Brief Trip Down the Whirlpool

Corryvreckan. Yes, an over-the-top Ardbeg.  No, I’m not going to tell you something you couldn’t have guessed. Salt from the sea, peat fresh from the earth, and a briny oil to drown it all in.  Served with a side of burnt-but-still-quite-tasty-and-doughy biscuits.  It was at this point that I got my nose so far into the glass that I inadvertently touched the whisky with the tip of my nose.  Such is the draw of the Corryvreckan, luring you at first, and before you know it you are nose-deep in whisky.  Dust and a spicy edge as you roil about in the waves of peat, gradually becoming inured to the intensity by the numbing magic of 57.1% Islay alcohol.  And then you can start to appreciate the more delicate aspects.  Just kidding.  Even with semi-submerged taste-buds, there is plenty of Ardbeg intensity to be savored.  And even as the peatier notes and the layers of salt and driftwood (and something suspiciously citrus) cease their debauchery and sink with finality into your gullet, a satisfying, oily, dust-of-peat residue coats your mouth with Ardbeg’s uncompromising flavors. –Nate

Laphroiag Triple Wood

I made a promise to myself recently to refrain from any sophomoric humor relating to whiskies, including the amount of wood present – although triple is quite impressive.  An unfortunate fact is that this expression of Laphroaig is only available in travel retail so don’t expect to find this anywhere that doesn’t require a boarding pass.

Laphroaig’s Quarter Cask is one of my favorite affordable Islay whiskies so I was really looking forward to trying the Triple Wood.   The Quarter Cask takes whisky that was matured in standard bourbon barrels then transfers it to smaller quarter casks where more of the whisky comes in contact with the barrel.  The Triple Wood is similar to the Quarter Cask expression except that it goes through one more round of maturation in Oloroso Sherry.

Laphroaig Triple Wood ~$100 (for one liter)
48% ABV

Color:  Light bronze

Nose:  Signature sweet peat, smoke, lots of oak influence, meaty, apple wood chips, cinnamon

Palate:  Peat, coal/ash, rich oak, oak spice, full bodied, rich, silky, leather

Finish:  Medium-long, peat and ash

Comment:  A very woody Laphroaig as expected, richer and deeper than the Quarter Cask.  I think I would still reach for the Quarter Cask if given the choice but this Triple Wood is very – very good! – Chris